Experienced rabbit breeders know how important it is to get a properly arranged feeder.
Strict requirements are imposed on a simple-looking device: it must be safe, convenient to use and easy to keep clean. The following describes the process of making a feeder for rabbits with their own hands.
The existence of several types of feeders due to the diversity of the diet of rabbits. Each type of feed has its own type of feeder.
Rabbits are fed:
- forbs, tops;
- root crops;
- cereal mixtures;
- compound feed.
Feeding without a feeder, even if it’s just hay, entails a number of undesirable consequences:
- overspending. Rabbits scatter food around the cage and trample it in the litter;
- violation of sanitary conditions. Once in the litter, the feed rots;
- harm to animals. Rabbits tend to defecate directly during meals. The use of soiled food leads to the development of infectious diseases.
Used to feed hay. Properly designed nurseries contain a 2-day feed rate and provide rabbits with easy access to it regardless of quantity, which greatly simplifies the owner’s life.
Nursery rabbit feeder
Usually, a nursery is made from a net: rabbits eat grass through it, but they cannot climb inside.
In the form of a gutter
Groove feeders are suitable for any type of food and with a sufficient length, they can saturate any number of puffies. They are also used as drinking bowls. The groove feeder is not necessarily a semicircular groove. This can be a long box without a top and with a slightly forward front wall.
The most convenient type for supplying dry friable feed is grain or granular vitamin supplements. The advantage of such feeders over grooved and cup feeders is that they require refueling only once every 2-3 days.
The product consists of two parts:
- vertical tank with a hole at the bottom;
- a tray or trough connected to it from below.
Grain from the tank is poured into the tray until it is full: the spilled feed blocks the hole in the tank. In the process of consumption of food by rabbits, the hole opens and new portions are added to the tray / chute. To feed a large number of rabbits, several hopper feeders are made and installed next to them.
In the form of cups
Ceramic or plastic bowl-shaped feeders are used for feeding root crops, bulk feed (grain, compound feed, etc.), as well as as drinking bowls. Their advantage is an attractive appearance.
But the practicality of feeders, as experience has shown, is a big question:
- small capacity: designed for a serving of not more than the daily allowance;
- unstable: the rabbit easily overturns the cup and then tramples the food.
The fixed cup feeder does not turn the rabbits upside down, but it is inconvenient to fill. Another important drawback: the impossibility of self-manufacturing.
You have to buy cups, and a ceramic version with a volume of 250 ml costs 350-400 rubles. True, some rabbit breeders use large flat tin cans of canned fish as cup feeders.
A proper rabbit feeder has the following characteristics:
- convenient for filling feed and regular cleaning;
- optimal volume. A low-capacity feeder complicates the life of the owner (often it is necessary to add a nutrient mixture) and leads to underfeeding of rabbits. Their appetite should not be underestimated: every day, each is applied to the feeder up to 30 times. In an excessively large capacity, animals climb up, scattering food and staining it with feces;
- holes are made in the bottom or it looks like a fine mesh. This measure prevents feed contamination;
- simultaneous access to food for all the inhabitants of the cell. With limited feeders, strong rabbits push the weak ones away and suffer from malnutrition. But when selecting sizes, it is again important to prevent the animals from getting inside (see rule No. 2);
- there are no sharp edges and stitching elements that can injure animals;
- the material does not succumb to the teeth of pets and does not harm them. Rabbits recklessly gnaw not only food, but also what is not allowed to be gnawed: parts of the cage (even a metal mesh), trays and, of course, a feeding trough.
About the materials for the feeders is worth talking in detail.
What are the feeders made of?
The material for the feeder is usually:
- steel sheets;
- flat slate;
- wood or plywood;
Tin and steel sheets are preferred for the following reasons:
- a metal feeder for rabbits is too tough;
- easy to clean;
- the edges of the tin can be folded inward so that rabbits do not rake feed.
Tin can be operated with simple tools, while steel sheets require a welding machine. True, the workpiece can be fastened with rivets. The animals and animals chew on plastic and wood with pleasure, because it is advisable to make feeders from such materials only if the most vulnerable places are upholstered with tin.
Without this, a thin plywood feeder will come to a deplorable state in just a month. So that rabbits do not encroach on the feeder and other elements not intended for training teeth, they are thrown branches as “rodents”.
It is convenient to use finished products to create a feeder. Most often, steel and plastic pipes are used: a part of the wall is cut out, receiving a groove feeder.
Also, breeders actively use cans and cans. Nursery feeders are often made of metal mesh. The cell size is 25×50 mm: through it, the pets easily get hay.
According to some breeders, a mesh with a mesh of 25×25 mm is also suitable, but a check is required: it should be seen firsthand that rabbits freely extract hay, including with a small amount. Also, senniki are made in the form of a lattice from a steel bar.
It is useful for a beginner rabbit breeder to get acquainted with several convenient home-made feeders of various types. Also, the manufacturing procedure for each of them will be considered.
Groove made of plastic pipe
They act in the following order:
- from a plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm or more, cut a fragment of a length of 30 cm
- two parallel lines, 13 cm apart, are drawn along the segment with a marker.
- exactly in the middle of the pipe segment between the two drawn lines, add two more perpendicular to them, spaced 2 cm apart. That is, each line is 1 cm spaced from the transverse plane of symmetry.
- a hacksaw cut the pipe along the first two lines, starting from the end and ending with the transverse line closest to it. That is, the gap between the two transverse lines remains uncut.
- make cuts with a hacksaw along the transverse lines, as a result of which a pipe wall fragment will be cut on both sides of them. You get a gutter with a jumper in the middle, not allowing the pipe to straighten.
- the cut off fragments are heated with a construction hairdryer (carefully) and straightened. Then, stubs are cut out from them with metal scissors or an electric jigsaw, covering the gutter at the ends.
- glue the plugs into the groove on the sides, slightly stepping back from the edge. Indentation is necessary for drilling mounting holes for mounting the gutter on a wall or cage door.
Check the feeder for sharp or jagged edges and other traumatic defects, if detected, they are cleaned with fine sandpaper or a file.
The procedure for the manufacture of a simple nursery feeder looks like this:
- from a plywood sheet with a hacksaw or a jigsaw cut two triangular blanks. the side walls;
- cut a rectangular fragment. the back wall;
- a rectangle is cut from the metal mesh to create a front panel. You can make it differently: weld a grid of vertical rods;
- connect all the elements into a single structure using self-tapping screws or nails.
In paired cells, it is convenient to use bilateral V-shaped nurseries, they are made as follows:
- wooden blocks are cut into blanks: 40 cm long-4 pcs., 50 cm long. 3 pcs.
- two U-shaped structures are knocked together from the blanks (can be connected with self-tapping screws): “legs”. from 40 cm of blanks, the crossbar. from 50 cm. These are the frameworks of the walls of the feeder facing the rabbits;
- each U-shaped structure is sewn up with a rectangular fragment of a metal mesh of the appropriate size;
- both walls are attached to the bottom blank 50 cm long, so that in cross section they form a kind of letter “V” with an angle of 45 degrees.
The length of the nursery is made from one wall of the cell to the opposite, so that they do not need side walls. In this case, the feeder divides the dwelling into two parts, so that the cell turns out to be bifurcated.
It is not recommended to fix the nursery feeder on the door, although this arrangement seems to be the most convenient for maintenance. Little rabbits squeeze into it through the net and when the breeder opens the door, they fall out. It is more correct to place the sennik at the door, but inside.
A very simple hopper-type feeder is made as follows:
- wash and dry the old tin can with a volume of 3 l or more;
- departing 2.5-3 cm from the bottom, parallel to it on the bank, draw a marker with a marker line, covering the product about half;
- make a cut along the line;
- crush the jar over the incision so that it becomes semicircular; while part of it is below the cut — it remained round, forming a semblance of a tray;
- many small holes are drilled in the bottom of the feeder.
The edges of the “tray” are bent, making them safe.
Popular bunker feeders made of plastic pipes:
- two pieces are cut from a plastic sewer pipe: 70 cm and 30 cm long;
- a short length on one side to a width of 3 cm is left untouched. In the rest, an element of the body is cut out, turning the pipe into a gutter;
- the cut fragment is heated with a construction hair dryer and straightened. Then, with a pair of metal scissors, a plug is cut out of it, covering the end of the gutter;
- the feeder is assembled: a 90 degree tap is put on one end of a long fragment; on the other hand, a chute is connected to the branch with an uncut end.
Fasten the feeder with the long part (hopper) up, while the gutter lies horizontally on the floor. The hopper can be brought out through the roof, which will greatly facilitate its refueling. In this case, it is closed with a plug on top.
Feed rabbits should be served not only in sufficient quantities, but also so that it remains clean and dry all the time. For this, various feeders are used, many of which, guided by the recommendations given in this article, can be made independently.