Rabbit Feeders

Rabbit Feeders

Farmers with rabbit breeders face the main task, the essence of which is the proper care and selection of high-quality cages and convenient feeders. The rabbit dining room is allocated as a system for feeding and watering pets. Do-it-yourself feeders for rabbits must meet certain requirements: they must be in a convenient place, approaches to it can only be free, the material must be of high quality, the parameters of the feeding facilities must meet the needs of animals, the floor near the feeding places must be clean and dry, fasteners must be comfortable and durable.

Features of the manufacture, acquisition and maintenance of feeders

If the feeder is small, rabbits may be malnourished, or the breeder will occasionally fill it, which will distract him from other matters. If the material from which the feeders are constructed is of poor quality, the animal may suffer, because the rabbits can even bite poisonous plastic objects.

Tip: You need to ensure that around the feeders and there is constant cleanliness, otherwise particles of animal feces can get into food and cause infection. Infection with pathogens can be carried on sawdust or straw.

Normally, the daily feed norm for rabbits fits in the container. The technical side of the issue is no less important. The feeder should be made so that it can be easily and quickly filled, as well as simply opened and closed, removed for washing or replacement from the cage, and quickly put into place.

The feeder and drinker, as a rule, are installed inside the cage. Hay and grass are placed in the outer manger. Cages with a manger resemble blocks.

Rabbit cuisine should be focused on the needs of animals. A do-it-yourself feeder for rabbits is built in certain sizes, which I calculate based on the number of animals in the cage. One individual needs 50 per 100 mm. space. It is better to make a drinking bowl one and a half liters, and one hare needs to be put in a bowl so that it is about 30 or 40 millimeters long.

What you need to know about the types of feeders?

Rabbit Feeders

There are different types of rabbit feeders. Distinguish homemade bunker, cup or grooved. By type, they can be movable (located in the cages and movable) and motionless, with wall mounting.

In the manufacture of additional compartments are welcome. Usually, in each cage there are 1 or 2 drinkers, a feeder for roughage, for juicy and for combination, as well as for a manger. To collect what is left of food, they are engaged in the construction of an additional compartment.

How to make a feeder for rabbits, experienced rabbit breeders know firsthand. It is desirable that the base was made of wood. Upholstery will serve as a metal profile.

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The work begins with calculation and measurements: length (average 40 centimeters), width (40 millimeters), depth (40 millimeters). A narrow feeder will not allow kids to climb inside it and stain food.

Tip: To prevent rabbits from raking feed, a rod with a diameter of at least 5 mm should be soldered to each profile edge.

It is recommended to make rabbits feeders high, from 7 or 10 cm. From the flooring in the cage. Due to its simplicity and convenience, the best designs for small animals are combined. They can lay several different feeds at the same time, and juicy, and rough, and combined rabbit dishes. In such a structure, there are 2 compartments, the feeder itself is located on top, the nursery troughs for concentrated feeds will be on the bottom. In good designs, filling is also carried out with the doors of the cell closed.

The material has requirements in environmental friendliness and strength. For wooden walls, galvanized or tin cladding will be required. To make a sennik, you need to stock up on a grid and a bar. The use of plastic in rabbits is a rarity.

How to make a V-shaped nursery feeder?

Rabbit Feeders

Using nursery facilities, livestock farmers ensure cleanliness and dryness of food, comfort and convenience to rabbits. The nursery is also easy to repair.

To make a triangular construction of the nursery, you need to prepare the tools: plywood, saw or hacksaw, wire, several nails or screws, stock up with a screwdriver or hammer, as well as wire cutters.

For a start make drawings. It is allowed to use downloaded from the Internet. Production begins from the side walls, which are cut from a plywood piece. The design is made in the form of a rectangular triangle, where one corner is sharp, thanks to this the hay will be pushed towards the rabbits.

The central part will be rectangular. Parts of the structure are fastened with self-tapping screws. To attach the feeder to the cell grid, you need to use a wire.

Bilateral sennik

Homemade hay feeders are very convenient not only for feeding rabbits, they make partitions between one rabbit’s apartment and another. To work, you need to stock up: five wooden planks, a net, nippers and nails with a hammer.

The structural basis is approximately a fifteen-meter wide beam or board. This material will be used for the manufacture of 4 parts, of which 40 centimeter long side walls will be obtained, as well as 3 parts, to build a top and a base, the dimensions of which will be 50 centimeters.

The grid is cut into 2 rectangular parts 40 by 30 centimeters. For the construction in the form of the letter P, you need a long beam and a couple of short ones. Parts are connected using nails or self-tapping screws. You will need to make another P. Both parts are fastened at a 45 degree angle, so the object on the side looks like a tick V. A grid is attached to each wall. Nursery feeder is installed in the cage.

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Tip: Nursery feeders should not be placed high, near the ceiling of the cage, so as not to impede the laying of grass or straw in it.

Bunker view

Rabbit Feeders

Bunker feeders for rabbits are a box with a trough and a bottom net. The feed supply in such facilities is automatic. The device of the inner box limits the flow of food as it decreases. Therefore, no grain is spilled from the hopper feeder. It can be wooden or plywood, upholstered with tin sheet.

Tip: To make the feeder for long-term use, it is better to use one tin as the material, its rodents will definitely not hurt.

For the manufacture you need to stock up: tin sheets; rivets; scissors cutting metal; a mallet; rivets and pliers; a hammer; in pencil; tape measure and drill.

Focusing on the drawing, mark out the iron sheets. All parts for the walls, trough and limiter are cut out and bent along the marked lines. In the places where the rivets will be, marks are drawn. A drill is needed to make holes in designated places. Rivets connect the structure together. So that there are no sharp corners about which animals could hurt themselves, they are somewhat flattened.

The bunker feeder for rabbits is economical, portioning automation, food isolation from litter, ease of use and cleaning. The only drawback is the high cost of the material.

Plastic bottle as the basis of the feeder

Rabbit Feeders

Feeders can be built from almost any material at hand. For a rabbit, a design made of a plastic bottle or a canister is very convenient. The result is an easy construction of the bunker sample.

Take a one and a half liter bottle (you can take a "kopeck piece") with a cap. Also, do not do without scissors and wire. This is the fastest manufacturing method. It is only necessary to cut out part of the bottle along its base. The parameters of the hole will be 20 by 10 centimeters. The feeder is suspended from the wall and filled with feed. If an old canister is used, manipulations are carried out, as with a bottle.

How to make a groove design?

For straw, grain and various root crops, a grooved wooden or metal object for feeding animals is suitable. Such a feeder for rabbits from a sewer pipe is possible, the diameter of which will be approximately 100 or 150 millimeters. The upper part is cut out. To avoid rashes of rabbit food, one side of a piece of pipe should be covered.

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In order to be able to eat several individuals at the same time, the feeder must meet the parameters within 50 or 100 centimeters. For a wooden structure or for drywall, 6 pieces are required, longitudinal walls are constructed of two, 4 will be end walls. One end is made of a pair of identical lateral parts, they should be nailed in a pair with an angular inclination, a pentagonal equilateral shape should be obtained.

The fastening of the long sides to each other is also done at an angle. If the bottom is narrow, this will provide the convenience of eating rabbits, they will not rake food, calmly eating what is available.

Maklyakovsky feeders

Rabbit Feeders

Farmer Eugene Maklyakov developed a special bunker view of a rabbit feeder from a profile or from galvanized iron sheets. Looking at the diagram, they make markings on the sheets to indicate: a pair of side walls, a jumper, an inner wall that carries a bar for supporting rabbits.

The necessary parts are cut out and bent, they are engaged in making connecting holes. For fastening you need to stock up with rivets. In order to have less garbage and dust in the food, many holes should be made from below. Buildings will be cheap. This feeder is practical because it has 2 bins for 2 feed varieties.

Zolotukhinsky manufacturing technique

Farmer Nikolai Zolotukhin has been raising rabbits for decades. He came up with an ergonomic trough made of iron and wooden sides. Based on the drawing, a couple of identical wooden sides are cut out. A blank is made from a metal or tin sheet. All parts are stapled together. The feeder is attached to the door of the rabbit’s cage.

In advance of the door, the cages mount the net, but not along the entire perimeter, since rabbits should easily get to the gutter.

Less often, on farms and farms, they use cup feeders for rabbits, since they are easy to knock over and pour out food. But you can also attach a cup to the walls of the cell. If the cup has a protruding part, it is possible to wind the wire on it and use it to tie the bowl to the cage.

You can hook a hook or several onto a cup. Hanging the hook on the cage, you should bend it to the maxim. Sometimes the bottom of the cup is screwed to the floor of the cage. A simple cup design can be installed for the first time.