What should be a feeding trough?
Rabbit dining room is a whole feeding and watering system of eared. The basic requirements for all feeders are the same:
- free, convenient approach,
- permissible sanitary condition,
- quality materials
- suitable sizes
- clean and dry floor near the dining room,
- Convenient and durable mounting system
- convenient place for feeding trough.
Nuances that can be encountered when manufacturing or buying it:
- Inadequate size threatens malnutrition. Or you have to constantly sprinkle food. And it takes more time to leave.
- Poor materials can harm the skin of the animal.
- REMEMBER! Rabbits try everything on the tooth. And it can be not only food. You will be surprised how easy it is to grind wood or harmful plastic!
- Food or water with particles of feces, urine, sawdust or straw is a source of infections and pathogenic bacteria.
- In addition, the ideal packaging should fit the daily feed rate.
Consider the technical features of the mechanism. You should be able to open and close the feeder for your part, to fill it, it is easy to remove or remove it from the cage to wash, and it is also easy to put it back.
Feeding troughs and drinking bowls are usually located inside the cage. Outside hang a manger for hay and grass. The cell itself then turns into a block.
The organization of the hare cuisine should also include the features of the animals.
The size of the feeder depends on the number of individuals in the cage, on average, based on one individual, this is 50,000 millimeters. The drinking bowl is usually taken no more than one and a half liters, the bowl itself for one rabbit should be 30 to 40 mm long.
How to make a feeder with your own hands, taking into account the features?
The best instruction manual is for those who have ever made a rabbit dining room or are currently in the process of working.
Almost everyone who has ever used a hammer can make a simple feeding trough with their own hands. The base is made of wood. A metal profile is suitable for upholstery.
Why is it better to use metal?
Yes, all because of the notorious habit of rabbits to bite everything in the world.
We calculate and measure by size:
- 400 mm length
- 40 mm wide
- depth 40 mm.
Why should the feeder be narrow?
This design will not allow rabbits to get into the food and spoil it with dirty paws. With adult animals, this factor can be missed.
It is better to solder the rods to the edges of the profile (with a diameter of 5 millimeters or more!) This will prevent rabbits from getting food out of them.
Experts say that the height should be at least 7-10 centimeters from the floor of the cell.
What is the benefit of a combination feeder?
Firstly, it can be used in a cage even with small rabbits. It is simple, comfortable and understandable to animals. Secondly, it is possible to lay all types of feed in it. And each rabbit will be able to choose a dish to his taste.
Thirdly, for individual cages, a feed trough is more suitable, since you can put all kinds of rabbit meals in it. Juicy, coarse and combined feed. This design will consist of two compartments:
- upper. direct feeder
- lower. trough-shaped nurseries, concentrated feeds are poured there
Assemble the feeder with your own hands better so that if necessary, fill it without opening the door of the cage. It turns out that you need access from the outside.
If you make a rating of popularity among rabbit feeders, then the first place (and, by a wide margin!) Will take a nursery feeder. Just imagine a feast. a mountain! So. for the eared, this is exactly what it looks like.
The main diet is hay, with such feeding is always abundant. It is dry and clean, which also reduces the risk of intestinal infections.
The basic rule in DIY manufacturing is proportion. Be sure to measure the bright side of the cage, as the manger is attached to it. They can be either triangular or square. They can be attached externally or mounted directly in the cage.
The most popular are V-shaped day nurseries. If you learn to do them yourself, then there should not be any problems with other forms.
So, for work we need:
- hacksaw or saw;
- nails or self-tapping screws, which is more convenient for anyone,
- screwdriver or hammer,
The first step is to draw up a drawing. You can take the finished drawing from the Internet, just figure it out if it will not cover the entire "sunny" side of the cell.
- From the plywood sheet we cut out the side walls. It should be a right-angled triangle with one acute angle. Such a design would push the hay towards the eared.
- Now it’s up to the central part. This is definitely a rectangle.
- Using screws, we fasten all three parts.
- We need the wire for attaching to the cell grid.
There is a variant of a bilateral sennik. Its advantages are that the feeder serves as an additional partition between rabbit apartments. Then the progress will be a little different.
- Take a board or timber (10-15 cm wide). This is the basis of the design.
- From it, you will need to make 4 parts for the side walls (40 cm long) and 3 parts for the top and base (all 50 cm each).
- We cut 2 rectangles 4030 cm in size from the grid. In the future, these are the walls through which the animals will feed.
- From two short and one long beams we make the letter "P". We connect the design with nails or self-tapping screws.
- Similarly, make the second letter "P".
- We connect the two resulting parts at an angle of 45 degrees so that the Latin letter “V”, or a checkmark, is on the side.
- We attach nets to all the walls of the manger.
- Install our work of art in a cage.
Below is a drawing of a nursery feeder.
This feeder should not reach the ceiling. Otherwise, you cannot sprinkle grass or hay into it.
The benefits of using a nursery:
- clean, dry food
- convenience for rabbits and for you,
- simplicity of construction, and hence repair.
Some craftsmen fit a ready-made bird cage for a nursery. It just needs to be firmly attached to the wall.
This type is more suitable for bulk feed. In other words, this is a box with a trough and a net below. The box itself is arranged inside to limit feed supply as it is eaten. So the excess will never wake up by.
They make it from wood, plywood and upholstered with tin. You can make the entire structure only out of tin, this will significantly extend its service life.
If you make the entire feeder wooden, then at least the lower edge should be metal. Otherwise, rodents will turn it into sawdust faster than you think.
- tin sheets;
- scissors for metal;
1. Mark the sheets of iron according to the drawings.
pictured: front wall
in the photo: side and back walls
pictured: side view
pictured: trough and limiter
2. We cut out.
3. We bend the blanks according to the markup.
4. We mark where to make holes for rivets.
5. Using a drill, make these holes.
6. Connect the structure with rivets.
7. Slightly flatten the sharp coal so that the animals do not cut themselves.
- isolation of feed from garbage,
- portion automation
- feed saving
- ease of use and washing.
- expensive materials
- lack of tools.
The wide popularity of hopper-type feeders is due to their following advantages:
- automation of the feeding process. The hopper feeder contains a significant supply of feed (approximately 2 daily rates) and gradually issues it to the dispensing tray;
- the possibility of placing the cage with rabbits in the country or in another area remote from the main housing. This advantage stems from the previous one: since rabbits do not need to sprinkle food every 2 to 3 hours, it is not necessary to live next to them. It is only necessary to supplement the bunker feeder with an autowater and strong locks on the cage door;
- simplicity of the device. Feed is carried out without the use of complex energy-dependent mechanisms. The feeder is extremely simple and affordable for self-manufacture. It can also be cleaned very easily and can be installed absolutely anywhere;
- economical feed consumption. In groove or cup feeders, the entire supply of food is in sight and therefore is constantly contaminated with fluff and excrement. This requires regular replacement, because when eating dirty food, animals run the risk of getting sick;
- In a bunker feeder, the entire feed supply is protected and therefore remains clean. At the same time, thanks to the reliable fastening, pets cannot overturn it and sprinkle the contents. The dispensing tray is equipped with slats that do not allow to rake the feed;
- ensuring the proper functioning of the gastrointestinal tract (GIT) of rabbits. Due to its special structure, the rabbit’s organism pushes excrement only when it eats the next portion of food. If it arrives intermittently, the animals suffer from violations in the digestive tract: bloating, indigestion, constipation. In the presence of a bunker feeder, rabbits are constantly provided with clean food, which allows them to eat as often as required by the body, and at any time of the day. As a result, a healthy livestock is gaining weight quickly;
- the possibility of collecting grain flour. The contents of the hopper gradually settle, while the grains have a mechanical effect on each other, leading to abrasion and crushing. To collect the crushed material, the hopper feeder is equipped with a mesh bottom and a container is installed under it. Subsequently, the flour is added to the mixes of wet food or fed by it to other inhabitants of the farmstead, for example, a bird.
When using a conventional feeder, the breeder is actually attached to the cage, since the rabbit eats quite intensively: it takes food up to 30 times a day.
The hopper feeder consists of two components:
- vertical tank in the form of a box with a rectangular section or a round pipe. a hopper. A bell is welded on top of the pipe. for ease of feed loading. In the box for this purpose, the front wall is made with an inclination outward. There is a narrow hole at the bottom of the hopper. The tank can be equipped with a shutter that regulates the amount of shedding feed. A lid is installed on top of the bunker to prevent rodents and insects from getting inside, and if the bunker comes out with its mouth (it’s convenient to load), it will also rain. Due to the loose fit of the lid or the device of the ventilation openings protected by the mesh, ventilation of the internal space is ensured, which prevents moisture condensation in the hopper and grain spilling. This is especially important in the cold period, when steam condenses intensively on the cooled walls;
- dispensing chute or tray. Installed under the hopper. Grain wakes up in the tray from the hopper until a rather large slide is gathered that blocks the hole. Eating food, the rabbits open the hole and a certain amount of grain is again poured into the tray. The bottom of the tray is made of fine mesh or drilled into it many holes. This is necessary for the removal of condensate and the screening of grain flour. In order to prevent food spillage, the sides of the tray are bent (tin products) or equipped with trims.
The hopper feeder is suitable for such feeds:
- cereal mixtures;
- compound feed;
- different granular additives.
The diet of rabbits is not limited to this, therefore, other feeders will be required:
- for root crops and meshanks: groove or cup feeders;
- for hay and forbs: nursery feeder (sennik).
The hopper volume is calculated using the simple formula V = A B C, where:
- A. daily feed rate per rabbit;
- B is the number of pets;
- C is the number of days for which the feeder is calculated.
The dimensions of the hopper are arranged so that it fits well into the cage and is located as rationally as possible. If the cell is supposed to be divided in two, the hopper can play the role of a partition.
Sometimes it is made elongated and used as one of the outer walls. But with this design there is no possibility of dismantling the feeder for repair and cleaning of the remnants of the old feed, and this is sometimes required.
Hopper feeder drawing
The dimensions of the tray are selected so that all rabbits have simultaneous access to food. Otherwise, strong individuals will constantly push out the weak and they will fall ill from malnutrition. The tray of the bunker feeder cannot have an arbitrarily large length. the grain spills out of the tank to a limited distance.
Therefore, with a significant number of livestock, a battery of several devices is installed or a pair of holes are made in the hopper on opposite sides and equipped with two trays, respectively.
In cages with small rabbits, the maximum width of the hopper discharge hole is 2 cm. Through the larger young growth will crawl inside and stain the food with feces.
Do it yourself
Bunker feeders are made of sheet material, it is best to use:
- galvanized iron;
- steel sheets.
The metal elements will be too tough for rabbits. Other materials. wood, plywood and even plastic. they readily nibble for training. If any of the above was used to make the feeder, the edges, corners and other vulnerable elements are upholstered with tin.
Many types of plastic gas. emit harmful gaseous substances. A safe variety should be selected, it is best to use food grade plastic. The details of a wooden feeder are connected with nails or self-tapping screws. Metal. rivets, tin soldering or welding.
Plastic is glued or heat-sealed (thermoplastic types). To distract the eared ears from the desire to sharpen their teeth on the feeder, branches are regularly thrown into the cage as "rodents".
In the simplest version, the feeder is a box in the form of a curbstone with an extended lower drawer. The drawer-like element is the dispensing tray, while the main feed is stored in a “cabinet”. It is convenient to use such products as cans, cans, pipes for the manufacture of bunker feeders.
For example, here’s how to make a 3-liter tin can feeder:
- at a distance of 2.5 cm from the bottom across the banks, draw a marker with a marker line covering half the circle;
- make a cut along the line with a hacksaw;
- press the part of the can above the cut so that it turns from round to semicircular. At the same time, a part 2.5 cm high under the cut (it remained round) will be protruding. this will be the tray;
- many holes are drilled in the bottom for the removal of moisture and small fragments of grain;
- the sides of the “tray” are folded so that they do not have cutting edges.
Another version of the feeder is made of a plastic sewer pipe.
- three fragments are cut from a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm: one is about 1 m long and two are 30 cm long;
- a part of the wall is cut off from each length of 30 cm, turning the pipe into a tray, but from one end at a 3 cm section the product is left untouched;
- cut off parts are heated with a building hairdryer or in another way and leveled to a flat state;
- semicircular plugs are cut from the obtained plates with scissors for metal to be installed on the trays from the end. they are trimmed with sandpaper and glued to the trays;
- a tee is put on a lateral branch on a long segment, getting a T-shaped design;
- Trays are inserted into the free branches of the tee with the end that has not been cut and remained round. The result was a bunker feeder with two trays directed in opposite directions;
- many small holes are drilled from below in trays and a tee;
- the tin strip is folded in half, then the resulting double bar is also bent L-shaped in length;
- put a tin piece on the edge of the tray, facing the rabbits, and, after making several through holes, fix it with rivets. This element plays the role of a flange that prevents the feed from spilling out of the tray and protects its edge from rabbit teeth;
- the same part is made for the second tray and mounted on it;
- from above the hopper is closed with a plug specially designed for sewer plastic pipes.
The bunker pipe can be made longer and brought out through the roof. then it will be easier to load the feeder. Attach the hopper feeder to the wall so that it can be easily removed for cleaning and repair, but the rabbits could not tip it.
A homemade rabbit feeder, regardless of type and material, is subject to mandatory inspection for sharp edges and stitching protrusions. To avoid injury to pets, such defects are cleaned with sandpaper or a file.
The main types of feeders
There are several varieties of rabbit feeders, differing in the type of feed that will be laid in them, as well as in their design and shape:
- Nurseries are used for hay, therefore they have another popular name. a sennik. These containers are used for daily feeding, therefore it is best to think about the location at the stage of acquisition or manufacture of the cage. It is undesirable to attach the container to the door. if rabbits are born, they will climb directly into the feeder. When the cells open, they can fall to the floor. Since hay needs to be added daily, then the nursery should be placed near the door.
- Groove feeders are universal, as they are suitable for filling with grain, and for feeding hay, as well as root crops. They are also used for the use of feed.
- Traditional cups and bowls are used to serve fresh root crops. Very often, grain is also poured into them. These containers are easy to reach and wash, but the rabbits quickly turn them over, so the grain most often scatters in the cage.
- Bunker auto-feeders are quite convenient to use for feeding animals with grain and granular feed. Mixtures are poured through a small hole, taking into account the eating of food, new portions are automatically poured under their weight. These mixed feeders are mounted along the walls of several pieces.
The farm needs to keep all varieties of feeders, since each of them is convenient in its own way. However, most of them are interchangeable. if one design fails, then it can easily be replaced by another.
Most often, manufacturing technology is simple, it will depend on a particular product. Below are step-by-step instructions for making the most popular feeders.
It is almost not necessary to make it, it is enough just to install any container with smooth edges. The main thing is to take into account that these containers are easily capsized by animals; therefore, it is necessary to take care of fixing the bowl in the cage. There are several ways:
- Screw the bottom of the cell onto the bottom. You can build one feeding trough on two adjacent cells, but in this case you need to use a large cup.
- Fasten the hooks to the cup, hang them on the rods and bend the hooks as much as possible.
- For protruding parts, wire the cells to the rods of the wire (they can be done in advance).
Despite its simplicity, this feeder is quite wide, and animals can begin to sprinkle food. It is also not very convenient to clean, especially if screwed to the cage. it is necessary to disassemble the structure all the time.
DIY bunker feeder
This product is made of wooden sheets and is covered with tin on the surface (can be made without upholstery).
- In accordance with the drawings, outlines are made on the sheet of iron, the details are cut along the contour.
- Outlines are also made on the plywood sheets, and they are all sawn according to the drawing: the bearing cross member, 2 side walls, front and rear walls, and the bottom.
- The cut out tin sheets are manually bent according to the marked lines.
- Tin sheets are fixed on wooden elements.
- Then all parts of the structure are knocked together.
The bunker feeder can be made even faster from metal elements:
- A mock-up is pre-cut out of paper, it is checked on it so that there are no protruding parts and gaps.
- Based on these elements, the marking is transferred to a galvanized metal sheet (thickness 0.5-0.8 mm).
- All parts are cut out, the necessary bends are performed: the back and front wall, the bottom, two side parts.
- For rivets, all the necessary holes are made.
- Parts are assembled into a common structure and fixed with rivets.
This feeder can be assembled in just a few hours. Its main advantage is that the feed can be filled up immediately with a supply, and due to the inclined surface, it will gradually be poured, taking into account how the animals will eat the next portion.
Root crops, grain, and hay can be filled in this container. They make it of wood or metal. For simultaneous feeding of several animals, standard sizes are 50-100 cm. The manufacturing technology is as follows:
- First of all, you need to determine the type of design, for this you can study the photos and drawings.
- If you make a wooden structure, then you can use 6 boards: 4 for the ends and 2 for the longitudinal walls.
- For one end, two identical side parts are used and nailed to each other so that an equilateral pentagon comes out.
- Long sides are fixed at an angle to each other so that the bottom is narrow, then it will be convenient to eat from such a feeder.
In the simplest case, you can use a piece of pipe (metal or plastic), with a diameter of 120-160 mm, and cut off the upper part, and so that the feed does not spill out, close one hole.
This design was developed by the flower rabbit breeder. This is one of the types of hopper feeders, it can also be made from a sheet of galvanized metal.
- Based on the drawing, the following markings are made: the inner wall, the jumper, 2 side walls and the supporting bar, where the rabbits will rest.
- All elements are cut out, bent (work must be done on the table).
- To connect, holes are made, as well as several holes from below, so that dust and small debris are poured down.
- All elements are fixed with rivets.
This option is not only one of the most affordable, but also practical: the camera has two bins, so you can pour several types of feed.
The invention of Zolotukhin
Another common version of the product was created by Russian farmer Nikolai Zolotukhin. For several decades he has been engaged in the maintenance of rabbits and during this time he has developed copyrighted versions of both cages and feeders.
One of the feeders is installed directly on the door, which is quite convenient, as space is saved, and you do not need to close and open the door all the time to clean the container or add feed. At the heart of the product are lateral wooden parts (two pieces), galvanized sheets of iron.
- In accordance with the drawings, two identical wooden side panels are cut in size.
- Outlines are made on a metal sheet (tin is also suitable) and the product bends along pre-drawn lines.
- The metal workpiece and the side parts are fastened with self-tapping screws and nails.
The feeder is fixed directly to the door frame. A mesh is pre-installed in the frame; it should not cover the entire space so that animals have free access to the groove.
Plastic bottle feeder
This is the easiest option. For manufacturing, only a plastic bottle, scissors or a sharp knife and wire are needed.
- A 1.5 liter plastic bottle is used.
- In the main part (that is, not the neck and bottom), you need to cut a rectangle with dimensions of 20 × 10 cm.
- With the help of wire, the bottle is fixed in two places to the bars of the cage, and food can be poured.
Important: it must be ensured that the edges of the bottle do not have any burrs, and it is advisable to cut the corners in round rather than straight lines.
Before starting production, the following recommendations should be taken into account:
- if the product is made of thin materials that rabbits can gnaw on, then it is necessary to upholstery it with tin for the longest service time;
- all elements of the arrangement of cells must be as convenient as possible in maintaining hygiene and cleanliness;
- fastening to the cells of the feeders must be reliable in order to exclude their turning over;
- the volume of the feeders must be at least the volume of the daily norm of feeding the animals, otherwise the rabbits will start to climb into them;
- It is advised to arrange feeders in such a way that the feed is contaminated as little as possible (line the bottom with a fine grid or drill holes on the bottom).
Creative approach to keeping eared pets will make rabbit breeding a rather fascinating occupation. If you build troughs and cages for rabbits from improvised materials with your own hands, you can save a significant amount before starting a rabbit breeding business.
What are the types of drinkers
Inexperienced rabbit breeders very often use any available containers for drinking bowls, such as ordinary cans or bowls. But they are not reliable, because animals are very mobile.
To choose the most convenient container for drinking, consider what drinkers most often used by farmers today:
- out of the bottle
Each type of drinking bowls for rabbits has its pros and cons. By comparing them, you can choose the most suitable option.
In large farms, drinkers for rabbits are most often used. With their help, dozens of individuals are provided with water around the clock.
The principle of operation is based on the fact that from a large central reservoir, the contents are piped to the bowls located in the cells. The system is equipped with a float, which is lowered together and the liquid level in the tank, which allows you to replenish the cells in the cells with fresh water.
Semi-automatic drinking bowls are another way of providing animals with water. These drinkers have the function of automatically filling the drinker with water from an additional tank. Conventional plastic bottles can serve as such an additional storage capacity.
The bowl of such a drinker is mounted in a cage so that it can be removed if necessary. In accordance with the size of the additional bottles, clamps are made.
Important! To prevent leaks, the joints are coated with sealant or rubber washers are installed. gaskets
By means of the lower collar the water level in the drinking bowl will be regulated. The height at which you need to attach the lower clamp depends on the volume of the bottles. It needs to be fixed at a height of 3 cm from the floor, the protrusion in the cage should also be 3 cm, then animal feces will not enter the drinker.
Important! Try to regularly inspect how full the containers are. For example, the minimum for a vacuum or simple "bottle" system is 0.5 l. if less water is left, you will have to top up.
Automatic nipple drinkers are by far the most sought after. They are most often used on large farms. A tank made of stainless steel collects water entering the distribution tank, whose operation is based on the distribution system of flushing.
From such a tank departs the highway from the tubes that fall into any cell. Such drinkers are equipped with a special ball. a nipple. When the rabbit begins to beat the tongue on the nipple, water is released.
Unlike other known drinking bowls for rabbits, nipple drinking of rabbits will be the cleanest. It is closed, so litter can not get inside it, wool and dirt can not. The water will always be clean, and you can wash the drinkers as they become dirty, if only once every two weeks
Pros: by setting up an automatic water supply system, you can drink a whole herd at the same time, and this significantly saves time on caring for animals; fresh and clean water enters the cells.
Minus: making a car drinker for rabbits requires some skills and financial costs.
According to the principle of operation, the design of the bottle resembles a nipple. Such a homemade drinker is perfect for both large farms and small rabbits. It is not very convenient to use, but it is quite suitable when you need to quickly supply the cage with a drinker. It will take several minutes to make.
Plus: The main advantages of these drinking bowls are the availability of consumables, ease of use, ease of manufacture. Unlike ordinary cups and bowls, a device made of a plastic bottle cannot be knocked over or spilled; garbage and feces will hardly get into it. If damaged, the structure can be easily replaced with a new one. The equipment provides the home decorative beast with clean drink at any time.
Cons: costly acquisition of materials for the manufacture of one design; if you make nipple drinkers for rabbits with your own hands from a bottle for ten or more individuals, the cost and time to manufacture increase several times.
The same plastic bottles are used, but the principle of supply is already different: part of the water, pouring out, covers the neck, and then physics. the pressure difference does not allow all the water to pour out at once.
There is a minimum of material, as well as time-consuming:
- A bottle and any container with rounded edges are taken (bowl, container, tin container).
- The bottom is cut out, water will be poured there.
- Then unscrew the cork, thereby regulating the flow of water. Some do it differently: the cork remains in place, but 2-3 large holes are made in it with an awl or knife.
Other design options:
The winter version of the design is equipped with a mechanism that heats the drink to the desired temperature. Additionally, a battery is required for the heating mechanism to work.
Drip devices. options for self-manufacturing. The fluid supply mechanism is similar to automatic drinkers, and the cost due to the use of improvised materials is less.
Do-it-yourself ways to make drinkers
Method No. 1 If the cup method is suitable for you, then you will not have to make anything with your own hands. It is enough to put a plastic or metal container in the cage, which will be suitable in size.
As such drinkers, you can use the budget option:
- bowls; pots;
- containers from canned food and other products (small round shape);
- cropped plastic bottles.
To fix the device, the following materials will be required:
- large clothespins;
- strips of tin or stainless steel;
- nuts, screws, washers;
- other consumables.
Tips for container stability:
- drive into the side wall of the cell two nails one above the other;
- bend nails in the form of loops;
- insert a long nail into the loops so that it rests on the upper loop with a hat, passes through the lower loop and rests its tip on the bottom of the drinker.
Bowls made of plastic or metal, preferably enameled, the height of the sides of which will not exceed three to four centimeters are best suited for drinking rabbits.
The diameter of such a bowl should be at least 15-20 centimeters per animal living in the cage. If eared in the house lives more, it is better to take a container of a different size.
Method number 2 Nipple drinker. a more complex structure, for the manufacture of which you will need skill and a slightly larger amount of necessary materials.
However, at a low temperature in winter, water in a nipple drinker quickly freezes. Yes, and the volume of such drinkers is small, for several rabbits it is necessary to add water more than once a day, and fiddling with opening and closing the lid of the nipple drinker is very tiring.
Important! In some households you can see drinking bowls using tin or metal tanks. They are durable, but the edges have to be filed, and sometimes a “seam” is used with a soldering iron (so as not to injure the animals).
Such drinkers are most practical: the water is clean and does not evaporate (hence low consumption), shedding it is unrealistic even for a powerful adult rabbit. In addition, this is an excellent method for simultaneously supplying vitamin or therapeutic solutions to all cells.
A home-made version of a nipple drinker can be made as follows: a tube with a nipple is inserted into the bottle, the entire unit is strengthened outside the cage with clamps
Method No. 3 The easiest way to make such a drinker is from plastic bottles, since it is this material that will meet all the requirements for this item of inventory:
- it is not toxic;
- convenient to use;
- it is cheap, and given that the bottles usually remain like garbage, it costs nothing at all;
- easy to clean.
To make a vacuum drinking bowl with your own hands, you need to prepare a plastic bottle, a bowl with smooth edges and holders. Next, the bowl is fixed at a height of 10 cm from the floor (this is necessary so that the animals do not climb inside). Above the bowl fasten the bottle with its neck down.
There is one point associated with their use. rabbits (especially young ones) can bite such a container in a week. the second. Therefore, it makes sense to make a more reliable vacuum system.
Drinking bowls for several individuals or cages
Such a drinker is made of a 100 mm corner and a pipe.
- 1. Take a piece of PVC pipe 10-15 cm larger than the front side of the cage. Several small or one large rectangular hole is cut through it.
- 2. In the cage, several rods are removed from the sides (near the front wall) and the pipe is inserted so that it exits from both sides.
- 3. On one part of the device put a cap. On the second side is a corner.
- 4. The cell door is located above the device.
You can cut the pipe to half. It is better to make one long hole. In this case, it will be easier to clean the bottom of the device if it gets dirty or blooms.
Important! Try to regularly inspect how full the containers are. For example, the minimum for a vacuum or simple "bottle" system is 0.5 l. if there is less water left, you have to add
If you have several rows of cages located on the same level, they install additional pipes cut in the same way, fittings and pass the created pipeline into all the "apartments" of animals. To ensure that drinkers are always clean, it is most convenient to use small containers. For example, no more than 0.5 liters.
Tip. The last exit is better not to drown, but to provide a tap and drain the liquid into the sewer.
Types of drinkers
- – automatic
- -nipple (nipple)
- – cup
Automatic drinkers are advisable to use in large farms. The cups are filled with water on their own and constant monitoring is not required. The storage tank is a tank with a large filling volume. Water from the main tank through the installed main pipes enters directly into the bowls to all cells. The water supply is automatically controlled by a float valve. Thus, a large number of animals can simultaneously receive clean water. True, this method requires large financial investments and is quite laborious.
Nipple or nipple drinkers
From the name itself it is already clear that the nipple is at the heart of the drinking mechanism. The principle of operation is reminiscent of the device of a well-known street hand wash. When, when pressing on the rod, water is supplied from the washbasin. This device is also called the nipple type. The design is based on a plug in which the ball is integrated. When pressed, it rises and frees access to water.
Nipple drinkers are very popular with rabbit breeders. They are convenient in that they do not require constant monitoring by the farmer, it is enough to fill the tank with water once and the animals will be provided with it for the whole day. Water always remains clean and cannot be spilled.
Such a drinker is not difficult to make with your own hands. This does not require large investments, often improvised materials are used. The minus is that the rabbit will have to be trained to use a nipple drinker. To do this, the owner will need to show the principle of work by pressing a finger on the nipple, to demonstrate that there is water on the hand. After several such attempts, the rabbit will understand and will be able to get water from the bowl himself.
Cup drinkers are the easiest, budget and still the most popular type of drinkers. Its essence is to put a cup of water in the cage where the pet is kept. Sometimes use cans, mugs, bowls.
The only advantage of this method is its simplicity. Finding a cup on the farm is easy. But we should not forget about the minuses, which are quite significant:. rabbits are active and playful animals. They will constantly turn a simple cup of water.
And this will lead to waterlogging of the litter, which can provoke various diseases. And also it will deprive rabbits of access to water. Water in an open container quickly becomes unsuitable for drinking, as wool, food and waste products will get into it.
It will not be difficult to make a vacuum drinking bowl with your own hands. Low cost manufacturing option. Simple construction. It is enough to recall the laws of physics and it will become clear that the water supply is due to the pressure difference.
- A deep bowl must be firmly fixed with wire so that the rabbits cannot turn it over.
- Pour water into the bottle and quickly turning it over, set it in a bowl. We fix the bottle with wire.
- The drinker will fill up with water by about 2/3. The remaining liquid will flow gradually, as the emptying of the bowl, exactly to the same level.
Drinking bowl from a plastic bottle. Do it yourself do-it-yourself drinker
You will need:
Rinse the bottle thoroughly from the inside!
- Make a small hole in the lid with a drill or awl.
- Insert a nipple into the hole made
- Cut the bottom of the bottle or make a hole so that you can fill the water there.
- Secure the device using wire
- insert the nipple not into the neck, but into the bottom of the bottle
The second version of the nipple drinker for several cells
Store feed containers are good, but if you make your own rabbit feeders, they will exactly meet your needs. Yes, and cost less. About the types, sizes, methods and materials from which they can be made, read in our article. The diet of animals must be diverse, which means that devices of different types are needed. Automatic, bunker, groove, nursery. you will find all the details below.
Variety of models
The type of rabbit feeder depends on the food that will be laid in it. For example, grass and root crops, animal feed, grain or hay.
By design, they are divided into:
The first type is the simplest and cheapest. It can be made of plastic pipes by sawing a piece along and processing the edges. But in such models it is difficult to dose food and not allow animals to contaminate it.
Bunker feeders for rabbits are convenient and practical. They are suitable for almost any food. It is fed by gravity, the size of the hopper allows you to fill it up for several days at once.
Such an automatic rabbit feeder allows you to not overfeed the animals. Grain comes dosed as needed. Adding food can be done once every few days.
Hay feeders (nurseries) provide animals access to hay or grass, but do not allow to scatter and contaminate food. They can be made bilateral, fixing between cells.
On the farm, you need to use feeders of different types, the priority is the convenience of the animal.
The feed container must be safe and convenient, that is, easy to remove, clean and wash.
All surfaces should be treated so that there are sharp edges and corners. If you decide to build a bunker feeder for rabbits, calculate the volume of the bunker depending on the number of animals in the aviary.
The design of the bunker feeder for rabbits needs to be thought out especially carefully. So that there was enough space for everyone, food was served in the right amount, and the animal could not get inside the tank. The circuit should contain dimensions and reflect the shape of the structure.
A feeder for rabbits from sewer pipes will cost less to manufacture, but will not last long. Rabbits try everything for a tooth. Choose the material depending on your capabilities and needs.
It can be asbestos-cement pipes. Plastic can also be used, but there is a risk that the animals will bite them. Therefore, it is better not to take risks, but to use such material only for the upper part of the structure, where the eared ones do not have access.
The length of the groove feeder, including from the pipe, is determined by the number of rabbits in the aviary: on average, at the rate of 10-15 cm, one individual. It is better to use a pipe of small diameter. 4-6 cm. To eat comfortably, fix the device at a height of 7-10 cm from the floor.
Ingredients and Nutrient ContentGrandorf is a high-quality, low-grain or grain-free feed that has no ingredients
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