Requirements for drinking bowls for rabbits
The rabbits themselves are very mobile, and it is not difficult to turn over the capacity for them, so you have to think about the shape of the drinking bowl and its reliable fastening. And planting a “swamp” in the cells is undesirable.
Those who have been keeping rabbits for a long time noticed that for some reason, animals use an open container with water as a toilet, so they have to change water regularly, and this does not always have time.
Important! Try to regularly inspect how full the containers are. For example, the minimum for a vacuum or simple "bottle" system is 0.5 l. if less water is left, you will have to top up. Firmly deciding to take up the manufacture of an auto-drinker for rabbits with your own hands, consider these nuances. You will have to keep in mind other requirements for such designs, namely:
- Security. There should not be any burrs on the drinkers, let alone sharp corners. Tin cans are excluded.
- Protection against dust and debris.
- The volume should be enough for a day (that is, a liter with a small margin).
- Convenience to animals.
- Filling and washing containers should also be as easy as possible. Position it so as not to stretch across the entire cell, at the risk of overflowing water.
- Reliability and simplicity. They try to make the system so that it is understandable for rabbits, and they could not gnaw it (sometimes it happens).
Knowing about these points, you can easily choose the right type of drinking bowl, and there are actually a lot of them.
Read about such popular rabbit breeds: "Risen", "Baran", "Rex", "Flanders", "Butterfly", "California", "Black-Brown".
What are the drinkers for rabbits
The easiest way to take a bowl, but this simplicity turns into a constant change of water and its rapid pollution. Even for a small farm, this is not the best option.
Where cup, vacuum or nipple devices are more suitable. Let’s take a closer look at them.
Did you know? Breeding and keeping rabbits has long become an important livestock industry, requiring a solid scientific base. The first branch institution in the former USSR was opened in 1932 by the Research Institute of Rabbit Breeding, which still operates today.
Cup made from bottles and plastic cans. Plus they have only one. a large volume. They deliver much more inconvenience: they have to be aggravated by clinging to a weight on the back or fixing a clamp. In addition, they are open, dirt freely enters there, and it is necessary to wash the container several times a day.
Vacuum (or semi-automatic) is much more practical. The bottom line is simple. the water from the additional container is fed to the “main” drinker by gravity until it reaches the desired level. Such a reservoir can be a plastic bottle, which is attached to the cell wall with clamps (the lower retainer at the same time regulates the liquid level).
"Vacuum" is simple and cheap to manufacture, and the water in such a system remains clean for a long time. There is also a minus: the liquid can easily leak out of the bowl, and in winter there is a risk of it freezing.
The most sought after are nipple system. From a closed container, water flows into a tube, at the end of which there is a ball nipple. To get drunk, the rabbit will have to put pressure on this ball with his tongue.
Important! To prevent leaks, the joints are coated with sealant or rubber washers are installed. gaskets. Such drinkers are most practical: the water is clean and does not evaporate (hence low consumption), shedding it is unrealistic even for a powerful adult rabbit. In addition, this is an excellent method for simultaneously supplying vitamin or therapeutic solutions to all cells.
Among the shortcomings can be called some manufacturing complexity and higher cost. Frequent refillings may cause the cap to leak. In the cold season, it happens that the nipple works intermittently (the ball may just freeze).
Automatic fixtures are suitable for large farms. From a large tank, water is piped into the bowls installed in the cells. The flow is regulated by a float valve, which is lowered along with the water level in the tank.
So dozens (or even hundreds) of animals simultaneously receive clean water. However, such a system is laborious to build and quite expensive.
Having made a choice, it’s time to learn how to make a drinker for rabbits.
Anyone can make a drinker, all the more so for this you need improvised materials, which are abundant in each compound. Let’s start with the simplest “bottle” designs.
Read also about how to make drinkers for chickens and chickens with your own hands.
Out of the bottle
Everything is simple here. they take an ordinary plastic bottle and cut a hole approximately in the middle with a heated knife. In size, it must be such that a rabbit muzzle passes there.
Did you know? In 1963, domestic breeders bred a new breed. the Soviet chinchilla. This is a kind of hybrid of small rodents of the French lines and large white rabbits of the Giant breed. For this, both 1.5 liter containers and 5 liter baclars are suitable (depending on the number of animals in one cage and their age).
Such elementary drinking bowls for rabbits, made from plastic bottles with their own hands, are usually fixed on the cage with two pieces of soft wire. One grabs the neck of the “bottle” and the other holds the top.
There is one point associated with their use. rabbits (especially young ones) can bite such a container in a week. the second. Therefore, it makes sense to make a more reliable vacuum system.
The same plastic bottles are used, but the principle of supply is already different: part of the water, pouring out, covers the neck, and then physics. the pressure difference does not allow all the water to pour out at once.
There is a minimum of material, as well as time-consuming:
- A bottle and any container with rounded edges are taken (bowl, container, tin container).
- The bottom is cut out, water will be poured there.
- Then unscrew the cork, thereby regulating the flow of water. Some do it differently: the cork remains in place, but 2-3 large holes are made in it with an awl or knife.
Important! In some households you can see drinking bowls using tin or metal tanks. They are durable, but the edges have to be filed, and sometimes a “seam” is used with a soldering iron (so as not to injure the animals).
- The bottle is attached to the cell wall with wire or clamps at a height of 8-10 cm from the floor.
- Both containers are positioned so that the lid is near the bottom of the plate, but does not lie adjacent to it, thereby blocking the supply.
- Everything, you can fill in the water.
If the cage is large and densely “populated” by animals, then several drinkers will be needed. The main thing is that they cover the need for rabbits in the liquid.
Also at the home yard you can keep these farm animals: chickens, pigs, nutria, goats, cows.
Do-it-yourself nipple drinkers for rabbits work on the same principle, but may differ in design. Those that simpler in the manufacture, suitable for a small livestock living in 1-2 cells. Let’s start with them.
They are done like this:
- Take a bottle with a cap and a piece of soft rubber or transparent plastic tube. When buying nipples in the kit, they usually offer a tube that is suitable in size. this is an even better option.
- A hole is carefully cut in the lid along the diameter of the tube.
- A nipple is inserted into the tube (on one edge), and the other end is inserted into the cap.
Did you know? In 1859, one Australian farmer produced 12 pairs of animals. After 40 years, there were about 20 million rabbits on the continent, and during this time they completely destroyed some species of plants, left the sheep and indigenous animals without food supply.
- The bottle is hooked on the wall of the cell with clamps (the smaller one near the neck, the larger one at the top). It should be convenient for the rabbit to use a nipple, so choose the right height.
- Before filling the container with water, substitute a small plate under it. until the animals get used to this method, the water may drip a little on half a cell.
- On the side of the pipe where the grooves of the pipes go, make marks and drill holes.
- Then they “pass” with a tap.
- A nipple is inserted into these threads.
- A cap is placed on the master end of the “main” pipe.
- A hole with a hose thread is made in the prepared tank or bottle.
- At the other end, the hose connects to the tube from the nipple. For tightness, the joints are wrapped with tape (Teflon is suitable).
- It remains to attach drop catchers.
Such work will take more time, but the “resource” of such a system will be large, and if you put a volumetric tank, you don’t have to often add water. it’s also a saving.
Important! In winter, you should not save on heating and lighting: rabbits need comfort. In addition, the water should not freeze (sometimes large containers are insulated). Now you know what kind of drinking bowls for rabbits are, how to build them yourself, based on photos and drawings. We hope that they will serve for a long time on the farm, and fluffy pets will please with their rapid growth.