It is recommended that rabbits be kept in cages on private farms and farms. With the cellular system of keeping, it is possible to properly conduct breeding, economically spend food, effectively treat animals and carry out preventive measures.
Cages for rabbits are better to build two-tier. Other facilities for storing feed, meat, skins, etc. are also needed.
Depending on climatic conditions, the cells are installed in open areas. in the yard, in the garden. Cages can also be installed indoors (for example, in sheds). The combined content of rabbits is also used: in the warm season. outdoors, in winter. indoors.
When the group content of young animals is most sharply reduced the quality of the skins of males. Therefore, if the farm does not have a sufficient number of cells for the individual keeping of all rabbits, then when rearing young animals, one must first plant one male and the female one in groups.
Prerequisites for the construction of rabbit cages of all types and designs are ease of manufacture, low cost, ease of maintenance of animals, hygiene. Particular attention should be paid to the device of the sex of cells. In areas with a warm and temperate climate, when placing cages in the yard and receiving festivals throughout the year and in other areas when receiving festivals only in the spring-summer period, it is advisable to make lattice (slatted) solid tree species. oak, maple, beech, plastic, stamped metal or welded wire mesh, and solid wood in the nesting compartment and in the plug-in nest. The same floors must be done in portable cells. In other cases, cells with continuous test floors should be built, and even better, a double floor should be arranged.
Solid test floors should be inclined. The slope is best done towards the back wall. The difference in floor height (slope) should be approximately 5 cm. A double floor can be arranged in several ways, for example, by applying a removable test floor to a rack or mesh floor. In the second case, the cell is the most hygienic.
For a long time, keeping rabbits on one mesh floor leads to namin paws and rabbit disease with pododermatitis. Therefore, it is advisable to place removable shelves there, which must be cleaned daily of dirt.
Fig. one. A cage with a feeding trough and a drinking bowl: 1. a nursery-feeding trough; 2. drinking bowl
It is better to keep males and females in separate cages, young animals. 3-4 heads each in one cage.
When placing cages in the yard or shed, it should be borne in mind that rabbits do not tolerate draft, as well as increased or decreased humidity. Therefore, it is better to place cells in places protected from the wind. In lowlands and swamps, the air is usually humid, so cells should not be placed in such places. In such places, rabbits feel bad.
Fig. 2. Cage with manure removal: 1. feeding trough; 2. drinking bowl; 3. cone collector of manure and urine; 4. manure collector; 5. mesh floor
When placing stationary cells in several tiers, it is advisable to install two rows of them in front of one another. At the same time, when receiving okroly in the winter, the cells can be blocked by a removable gable roof. The distance between the rows should be sufficient for free passage of a person. For the winter, the ends of such aisles should be covered with any shields or fitted with a strong film, and under the roof above the aisle to conduct electric lighting.
When placing cells in sheds, it is necessary to ensure sufficient illumination and clean air.
The sizes of the group cage for young animals are determined by the number of rabbits that are supposed to be kept in it. Typically, the length of the cell is 200 to 300 cm, the width is 100 cm, and the height can range from 35 to 60 cm.
An ordinary mini-farm consists of 4 cells in two tiers, two in pairs, 4 hay nurseries, two gravity feed feeders, two water drills, two mounted queen cells with nests, a manure removal system and ventilation systems.
The basis of the mini-farm is a frame made of bars with a section of 45×90 mm and 45×40 mm, coniferous wood. After assembly, the frame must be carefully painted with white nitro enamel, the frame is the base and it must be completed for a period of at least 10. 15 years. Under a good roof, he will be able to stand and much longer. The remaining parts are all easily removable and can be easily replaced during operation.
Hay nursery parts are made of 7. 8 mm waterproof plywood. Parts made of plywood are mounted by means of nails or screws on a frame of whetstones with a section of 40×45 mm and the hay nursery is at the same time a door to the cell. On the inside, the hay crib is upholstered in a galvanized mesh with 25×50 mm cells. At the end of assembly, paint the outer part with white nitro enamel.
In a similar way, a compound feeder is assembled on a frame of 40×45 mm bars. All wooden parts that can be eaten by rabbits are upholstered with tin. Plywood parts are connected to a 20×20 mm rail. Outside the feed box must be painted.
Details of the watering box are also assembled on a 20×20 mm rail, first glue the inner sides of the parts, or shoot with a stapler, insulate with 4 mm thick foil.
The maternity ward and the mother cell are assembled in a similar way and carefully painted over with white nitro enamel on the outside and inside.
The cones for collecting manure and urine are collected through rivets and the inside is painted over with oil shale mastic. For installation of cones 20×20 mm rails are applied.
The assembly of floors is best done in the conductor on the screws. It is imperative that the floor slats be upholstered with a galvanized sheet shaver. Floors should be easily removable.
During the construction of mini-farms, each master has his own methods of work. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make a mini-farm without carpentry skills quickly and soundly. It should be noted that the building should last 15 to 20 years, and should be easy to maintain.
It is better to install mini-farms on brick columns, strictly horizontally. You can build mini-farms into sheds at your own discretion (several mini-farms under one roof are called sheds), but you need to face the south. The roof of the shed can be made of any material, under the roof you can put drains for rainwater.
To heat water at a temperature below 5 ° C, a domestic boiler with a power of 500 W is used at a voltage of 70. 90 volts; a temperature regulator is also needed to maintain the temperature of drinking water in the water tank 25. 30 ° C. At temperatures below 5 ° C, it is also necessary to warm the queen with rabbits up to 20 days. For these purposes, you can use a medical electric heating pad at 1 position of the switch. If a heating pad is used, then at temperatures up to 5 ° C and above it is better to have a voltage in the network of 110 volts.
Having the blueprints of a mini-farm on hand, a certain set of carpentry equipment and tools, in a warm carpentry workshop, you can begin trial production of the first mini-farm. The mini farm is a sophisticated carpentry. In the carpentry workshop it’s good to make a complete set of all kinds of templates, fixtures and conductors for cutting plywood, lumber, for assembling attachments and floors, etc. All this allows us to economically use the material, quickly and accurately make the assembly.
Growing rabbits, you have to do almost the same thing every day.
1. Checking the feeder utilizers, collecting feed screenings and replenishing it as necessary.
2. Check hay nurseries, hay inspection and replenishment.
3. Filling water bins with water. 2 times a week, the water is completely replaced and the trough is washed. Once a month, treatment for coccidiosis with zinaprim is performed, according to the instructions for its use.
Give once a month for 3 days, edible or iodized edible salt at the rate of 2 g per 1 liter of water (especially in winter).
4. Cleaning cones and manure (almost daily).
5. Once a week, a mini-farm is fully cleaned.
After slaughtering, the floor is removed in the cell, washed with hot water under high pressure, dried, treated with a disinfectant solution and stained with lime. The same is done in the uterine cell when young animals are fed.
Equipment and inventory
It is advisable to make feeders for concentrated feeds and root crops, as well as drinking bowls, built into the front (front) wall of the cage, this makes it easier to care for rabbits. The feeders should be up to 50-60 cm long. Arrange them in such a way that the center of gravity of the feeders is inside the cells, and therefore, in the normal state, their outer sides are pressed against the facade walls of the cells.
In order for the sucker rabbits not to get into the feeder and not damage it, it is necessary to make a removable metal frame with transverse partitions from the wire every 6 cm along the entire length of the feeders. If there is no such frame, it is necessary to cover the edges of the feeder with a metal plate or thick wire. The built-in metal drinking bowl is made on the same principle.
Fig. 3 Types of drinkers
For feeding grain and granules, hopper self-feeders can be used, laying food in them once a day.
If the cells do not have built-in feeders and drinking bowls, you can use others, but all of them must be resistant to capsizing, as well as convenient for cleaning. As such feeders and drinkers, for example, thick-walled clay cups and conventional tin cans can be used. In order to prevent them from tipping over, they are fixed in different ways: you can put the jar against the wall of the cage and fix it with a retractable rod or a large nail and so on.
There should be two containers in the cage. one for feed, the other for water.
As a container for water, ordinary bottles are also used, which are filled with water and placed with the neck in a drinking bowl or connecting them to the latter through a rubber tube. For rabbits with offspring, the upper edge of such a drinking bowl should be located at the level of 5–8 cm, and for young animals after laying out from mothers and for adult rabbits without offspring, at a height of 10–12 cm from the cage floor. The water level is set at a distance of about 1 cm from the top edge of the drinker.
In a rabbit farm, transportation of large and bulky goods (grass, hay, etc.) must have a light and durable cart with a carrying capacity of 70. 100 kg. Two-wheeled strollers with a rubber stroke of approximately the same carrying capacity are produced, but you can also make them yourself using wheels from bicycles, mopeds, scooters or motorcycles.
To clean the area where rabbits are kept, and to clean the cages, you must have certain equipment: a broom, a rake, a shovel, a broom, a scraper, a scoop, a bucket, as well as containers for storing disinfectants. After cleaning each cell, the equipment used (broom, scraper, scoop) should be lowered into a 3. 5% solution of creolin or lysol.
RABBIT FEEDING AND CARE
Any business needs to be thought over and done the right calculation. This is especially necessary when breeding animals. For any animal, the main thing is the room, the conditions of detention. A good rabbit breeder is recognized by the quality of the premises, cages and rabbits. Before buying animals, examine the cages and equipment from the best rabbit breeders. Build rabbitry only after you already have knowledge. After all, the building has been erected for years and its quality will largely determine the productivity and work culture.
Experts know that the rabbit is sensitive to stress, illness, living conditions, care. Not for nothing that he is successfully bred, as a rule, in civilized countries.
Growing rabbits, first of all, you need to keep in mind that rabbits eat constantly and long breaks in food can be fatal for them. Therefore, it will be correct if there will always be hay or fresh grass in the rabbit’s cage. Both are a very important source of fiber, essential for rabbits. Rabbits are very fond of the leaves of plantain, dandelion and sweet clover. Other wild plants can also be included in the rabbit’s diet: mallow, shepherd’s bag, yarrow, wood lice, garden sow thistle and nettle. All these feeds should be collected away from the city and roads. It is not worth collecting wild plants if you are not sure that you can distinguish harmless plants from poisonous ones. There should always be fresh water in the rabbit’s cage.
The rabbit also needs vegetables: root vegetables. turnips, carrots, beets, parsnips can be given. From green crops, they prefer spinach, broccoli, stalks and leaves of cauliflower, pods of peas and beans and parsley. Rabbits and ordinary cabbage eat, but its amount in the diet of a rabbit should not be predominant. Rabbits and green salads are very fond of, but they are not very useful to them. You must remember that the nutrition of rabbits must be varied. All vegetables should be given alternately or combined into vegetable mixtures. Do not let the rabbit peel potatoes.
Sometimes rabbits can be pampered with fruits or berries as a treat. Rabbits especially like apples, pears, raspberries, blackberries and strawberries. But do not abuse the delicacy.
All vegetables, fruits, greens, as well as tree branches brought from the cottage or from the forest, must be thoroughly washed before giving the rabbit. It must be remembered that washed greens must be dried before giving to the rabbit. In no case should you give the rabbit wet grass: this can cause him a serious illness.
In calculating the amount of food that a rabbit needs daily, focus on the rabbit itself: he will never eat more than his body needs. If the food remains uneaten. the next time it is worth reducing the portion; if in the rabbit the feeder was empty by the middle of the day, the portion should be increased. The food left over from the last day (with the exception of hay and solid feed) must be removed from the cage. Feeding rabbits is best every day at the same time. Any new food should be introduced gradually into the diet so that you can see how well the rabbit adapts to it.
If you follow all the rules of feeding a rabbit, you can be sure that he will always be healthy and cheerful, with thick shiny fur.
The rabbit is very sensitive not only to quality, but also to the assortment of feed. If you feed rabbits a monotonous feed, but rabbits love it, you make a mistake. Rabbits have a food preference, like all animals, but a varied diet is above all for them. Many are convinced that rabbits can be fed “pork” compound feed. If so, then there should be good hay to him. But you shouldn’t feed one “pork”, as it is low in fiber, an important component for normal digestion in rabbits.
With insufficient amounts of fiber, diarrhea occurs, and productivity decreases even with high protein and energy levels.
When feeding, individual multiple pregnancy should be considered. A female with 12 rabbits consumes 30% more food than one that has only 6 rabbits in the nest. The superfruit rabbit is simply not able to process the amount of feed to feed her cubs, even with very good feed quality. That is why many of the most valuable animals sometimes leave early.
Reasonably, those who, on the 2nd. 3rd day, plant two (sometimes three) rabbits from large nests and carefully plant them to females who have given birth to fewer rabbits. The technique of equalizing nests is well known. The attitude to this method is ambiguous, but it is useful to lighten the load of at least the young ones (first okrol). This allows not only to save the whole offspring and females, but also (which is equally important) to save young rabbits for subsequent offspring.
The normal activity of the rabbit’s body, its growth and development, and resistance to disease depend on feeding. It is important to feed properly.
Foods contain certain nutrients, in particular proteins (protein), carbohydrates, fats, mineral salts, vitamins and water. In feeds they are all contained in different quantities. The absence or deficiency of one or another element in the rabbit’s body can delay its growth and development. Therefore, it is necessary to harvest a variety of feeds and in sufficient quantities. Since rabbits are highly productive animals, feed for them should be nutritious, with a sufficient content of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and easily digestible minerals.
The main types of feed for rabbits
Green. A variety of herbs, fresh tree branches.
Juicy. good quality silage, root tubers, cabbage.
Rude. a variety of hay, dry leaves of trees.
Concentrated. grains of legumes and cereals, bran, fat-free meal, wheat germ, acorns, waste from the food industry.
Mineral. table salt, chalk, bone meal.
Animal feed. meat, meat and bone, fish, blood meal, milk, reverse, whey, fish oil, silkworm cocoons.
Two types of feeding rabbits are used: dry and mixed.
With a dry type of feeding, rabbits are fed with hay and compound feed in placers or granules. At the same time, rabbits must constantly have water.
With a mixed type of feeding, rabbits are fed green and succulent feeds, concentrates or fed with compound feeds in the form of placers or in the form of granules.
Green grass is rabbits’ favorite food. Freshly mowed, dried grass is rich in nutrients. Green food increases fertility, fertility and milkiness of rabbits, sexual activity of males.
In addition to green grass, rabbits also readily eat weed grasses such as wormwood, wild mountain ash, nettle, and are very fond of bitter and odorous herbs: mint, sage, caraway seeds, dill and others.
Of the herbs most useful and nutritious:
Dandelion and alfalfa. contribute to the formation of milk in lactating rabbits.
Wormwood, wild mountain ash, Chernobyl and plantain. prevent stomach diseases.
Parsley, pepper and celery. stimulate appetite, increase sexual potency.
Mint, caraway seeds, juniper, dill (milk product) and sage. aromatic herbs that improve the taste of rabbit meat.
In addition, other herbs can also be fed to rabbits: parsnip, goatskin, horse sorrel, vetch, wild chicory, clover, bindweed, angelica, timothy, alfalfa clover. Clover should be given in moderation in order not to cause gas bloating in the rabbit.
It is very useful for the development and growth of rabbits, as well as for increasing the milk production of rabbits. nettle. It is good to give animals 2 to 3 times a week. Before feeding, the nettles are moistened with salt water, chopped and sprinkled with bran.
To get good green food, you can sow a mixture of herbs in the spring in the area, for example barley, dandelion and timothy. Dandelion will give 4. 5 mowing, barley. 3. 4 mowing and timothy. 2 mowing during the summer.
You can sow for the green conveyor alfalfa, clover, vetch, pea and lupine. Sown early, these herbs can provide rabbits with green food from late June to mid September. Alfalfa cultivated and wild. the best nutritional and eatable food. Sainfoin rabbits eat well both in green and in the form of hay. Vico-oat mixture is well eaten by them only until the formation of pods. Winter vetch mixed with winter rye (3: 2) is eaten just as well. Blue lupine frost-resistant, so it can be used as green food in the fall. At this time, you can feed rabbits and winter rye. Sunflower (early and late varieties) can also be used in the green conveyor, but it is eaten well by rabbits only until the time of flowering. Kale. The main culture of the late green conveyor.
Poisonous plants should not be fed to rabbits. These include: milestone, hemlock, dope, belene, belladonna, digitalis, pharmacy avran, hellebore, raven eye, lily of the valley, larkspur, wrestler, celandine.
The best food for rabbits is hay, tree branches and leaves, succulent feed, concentrated feed.
Hay. With the onset of winter, rabbits are given hay and vegetables. Coarse feed helps digestion and should be at least 60% of the diet. In the fall, when switching from fresh to dry food, it happens that rabbits reluctantly eat it. In this case, the hay should be slightly moistened (sprinkled) with salt water or, chopped, sprinkled with bran or flour. It is also good to mix hay from timothy, alfalfa and wiki into ordinary hay. Old, slightly leafy cereal hay. poor food. The best hay for rabbits is small-leaved from legumes and meadow grasses, as well as forest harvested during the flowering period of grasses.
Branches and leaves of trees. Useful for improving digestion are branches of birch, aspen, poplar, willow or willow, elm, oak, ash, maple. It is advisable to stock up on these feeds in advance for the winter, for which from the beginning of August you should cut fresh branches with leaves and carefully dry them in the shade. After the first frosts, you can use branches to feed rabbits pine trees and ate. Branches can be harvested in the winter. From such branches, rabbits eat bark, needles and young shoots.
Succulent feed (root tubers and melons) rabbits eat eagerly. These feeds are not only tasty. they contribute to better digestibility of other feeds, an increase in milk yield of rabbits, faster growth and development of young animals and fattening of animals.
Potatoes give only boiled and crushed. Potato tops and frozen tubers are very harmful. Rabbits should not be fed potato peelings.
Carrot, Jerusalem artichoke. rabbit’s favorite food. Nutritious and healthy food.
Turnip, turnip and beet feed. healthy food, they are given in raw and boiled form. Leaves in the feed is better not to give.
Cabbage it is readily eaten by rabbits, but it is given in limited quantities so as not to cause tympanum in animals (bloating of the stomach with gases).
The root crop of tubers rabbits eat satisfactorily, but it must be fed to animals carefully, accustoming them to this feed gradually. You need to start topping tops with small amounts: 50-60 g of an adult rabbit and 30-40 g of young growth. Due to the high content of oxalic acid and mineral salts, the root crop of root crops can cause loose stools in adult rabbits, and diarrhea in young animals.
Concentrated feed.Of the concentrated feeds, the best for rabbits are compound feeds in the form of placers or granules prepared according to recipes especially for rabbits. You can feed and feed for pigs and cattle. But bird feed for rabbits are not suitable.
Bran and flour given to rabbits mainly as a seasoning for boiled vegetables or steamed with hot water. Sprinkle green fodder with dry bran or flour.
Oilcake useful and given in soaked form.
Bread. like leftovers from the table, black, white. you can give rabbits, but only dried. It is healthy and nutritious.
Cereal feed better fed rabbits in processed form. Oats, barley give crushed or scalded boiling water. Barley contributes to the deposition of fat and gives shine to the fluff. Wheat, corn, peas, and legumes are also given predominantly in soaked, crushed, or boiled form.
Kitchen waste (potatoes, leftover bread, soups, cereals) fed rabbits must be fresh and clean.
Of the waste for feeding rabbits use bran, oilcake, meal, food waste.
Pulp fed only in dried form, cake and meal mixed with bran, finely chopped grass, straw or bean chaff, with succulent feed. Seeds of cereals, legumes, corn grains and malt sprouts are fed crushed, the residues are crushed.
Meat and bone meal give 3 to 15 g per head with other feeds. Milk is mainly weak and depleted animals: young animals 25-30 g each, adult rabbits 40-50 g per day. Fish fat fed to lactating rabbits and young stocks.
Salt, chalk, bone meal in food rabbits add: 2. 3 g. for adults and 0, 5. 0.2 g. young animals. These mineral feeds are fed with mixers. Salt and chalk are given with water at the rate of 1 g of chalk per 1 g of salt per adult rabbit. Often rabbit breeders feed rabbits with mineral mixtures in the form of lumps, consisting of 200 g of chalk, 300 g of slaked lime and 500 g of red clay. This set of mineral feed is mixed and wetted with brine at the rate of 50 g of table salt per 1 liter of water. Lumps are made from the resulting mixture and dried thoroughly.
Water if possible, it should always be with rabbits, especially with a dry type of food. The need for rabbits in water depends on their age, live weight, physiological condition, feed composition, as well as weather conditions. Inadequate supply of rabbits with water leads to a decrease in their productivity and an increase in feed consumption per unit of live weight. The dry rabbits need water for about 100 ml of water per 1 kg of live weight of the animal, in puppet rabbits up to 1 l, in lactating rabbits up to 2 l, in the summer the rabbit with rabbits can drink up to 2.5. 3.5 l of water per day. In winter, water can be replaced with snow (as an exception). Water must be fresh and of good quality.
Features of feeding rabbits with a mixed type of feeding
From winter to summer feeding you need to switch gradually. Rapid replacement of dry feed with green grasses in rabbits, especially in young animals, causes increased gas formation and mass mortality. Initially, the daily rate of green mass should not exceed 50 g. Within 10 days, the rate of green mass is increased to 400. 500 g and gradually increased to 1000. 1500 g per day per adult head. Young animals aged 1 to 4 months per day can be fed from 100 to 800 g of green mass.
Prolonged feeding of rabbits to any one grass, even well-eaten, leads to poor results. Therefore, various herbs must be alternated with each other. It should be borne in mind that rabbits eat food better in the morning and evening, and with great appetite, and in the afternoon, especially in hot weather, completely refuse it. Grass covered with dew or rain must be ventilated before feeding.
Succulent feed is needed mainly in the winter. They improve digestion, increase the milk production of females and largely replace green fodder.
The effect of various concentrated feeds on the rabbit is not the same. So, oats enhances the sexual activity of males, so it is useful to feed it before and during mating. Corn gives a good result when fattening. Favorably affects the quality of the hairline and digestion by feeding the toasted seeds of flax and oats.
Eatability and digestibility of feeds is significantly increased if feeding is organized at certain hours, and the feeds are fed in small portions and their set changes at each cottage.
Feeding adult and resting rabbits
If in winter the main stock of rabbits is not used for breeding, then they must be maintained in a state of average fatness. The main feed in the mixed type of feeding during this period is hay, twig feed, succulent and concentrated feed. Adult rabbits are given hay and concentrated feed in the morning and evening in winter, and juicy. in the afternoon.
In the summer, rabbits are fed green fodder during the day, and mash mashines in the morning and evening.
During dormancy, rabbits with a live weight of 4 kg are fed per day approximately like this: in the summer they give 700. 800 g of grass and 20. 25 g of concentrates; in winter, 150. 200 g of hay, 200 g of succulent and 35 g of concentrated feed.
Mineral dressing is introduced into the diet: chalk, salt, bone meal at the rate of 1. 2 g per adult rabbit.
Feeding males during mating
The ability of males to fertilize rabbits depends on their state of health and fatness: with poor fatness, they are bad for mating. Therefore, 20 days before mating, the males need to feed green grass from forbs, alfalfa, sainfoin, as well as oats, some wheat bran and cake. The addition of millet bran and germinated cereal grain has a good effect on the manifestation of male sexual activity. It is advisable to introduce meat, fish or meat and bone meal into the diet.
An approximate diet for males weighing 4 kg with a mixed type of feeding in the summer: herbs. 850 g, concentrates. 30 g, meat and bone meal or fish meal. 5. 10 g; in winter: hay 150 g, succulent feed. 200 g, concentrates. 40. 50 g, meat and bone meal or fish meal. 5. 15 g.
Feeding and caring for puppy rabbits
20 days before the mating of rabbits, like males, it is necessary to transfer to normalized feeding. This increases the fatness of rabbits and the manifestation of their hunting.
During the period of succession, it is very important to ensure the normal mineral nutrition of rabbits, because the lack of mineral feed causes the offspring to die, and the rabbits that remain alive are underdeveloped. Rabbits need to be given 1. 1.5 g of chalk or bone meal and 1. 2 g of table salt and make sure that there is always fresh water in the cage.
In case of a mixed type of feeding, rabbit rabbits should be fed something like this: in the summer, 800-1000 g of grass and 40-50 g of concentrates; in winter, 150. 200 g of hay, 50. 60 g of concentrates and 200. 225 g of succulent feed per day. In addition, you need to give 5. 8 g of fish or meat and bone meal.
All sucral rabbits must be kept in separate cages. The cell should be cleaned and disinfected a week before the stroll. 5 days before the okrol, a mother liquor is put in a cage and it is ensured that there is always fresh water. Regularly, every 2 to 3 days, the rabbit breeder should inspect the nests until the rabbits begin to leave them.
Feeding and caring for lactating rabbits
The high nutritional value of rabbit milk provides rapid rabbit growth. The milk content of rabbits is different. from 50 to 200 g of milk per day and depends on the amount of nutritious feed. The feeding of the suckling rabbits is divided into two periods: from the okrolet to the 16th day of the suckling period, the second. from the 16th day of the suckling period to its end, when the rabbits start to eat feed on their own.
With compacted okroli, you need to add feed for the growth and development of rabbits in the womb of a rabbit.
Here is an approximate ration of the suckling rabbit with a mixed type of feeding from okrol to the 16th day:
In the summer: 1400 g of grass and 40 g of concentrates.
In winter: 250 g of hay, 300 g of succulent feed and 80 g of concentrates.
From the 16th day for each rabbit is added:
In the summer: 100 g of grass and 5 g of concentrates.
In winter: 20 g of hay, 20 g of succulent feed and 7 g of concentrates.
For suckling and at the same time sucral rabbits (from okrol to the 16th day):
In the summer: 1300. 1600 g of grass and 70. 80 g of concentrates.
In winter: 20 g of hay, 20 g of succulent feed and 7 g of concentrates.
Drinking bowl for rabbits drawings photo